Walk along the cobblestone, winding alleys of a Moroccan medina to see how trades, crafts and shops were conducted in Northern Africa a thousand years ago. But while your senses are being overwhelmed, watch out for the passing donkeys.
Walk along the cobblestone, winding alleys of a Moroccan medina to see how trades, crafts and shops were conducted in Northern Africa a thousand years ago. But while your senses are being overwhelmed, watch out for the passing donkeys.
This butcher at Casablanca’s Old Medina was extremely proud of his display of skinned cow and lamb legs, hanging octopi and other raw, unidentifiable animal parts. He gave me his business card and requested a copy of this photo. I have no idea if he ever received it. The Old Medina is near Place des Nations Unies.
Avenue des Far & Boulevard Hassan I, Casablanca 20250, Morocco
These caged chickens squawked loudly as a threatening cat approached. The two Moroccan merchants were unfazed by the commotion. They knew this feline was not a paying customer. However, they would spring into action when someone approached with dirham (Moroccan currency) in their pocket. After selecting a rooster or hen, a customer waits while their dinner has their neck twisted.
Avenue des Far & Boulevard Hassan I Casablanca 20250, Morocco
This chalk board menu at the Old Medina is in French and Arabic. This multilingual approach reflects the mixed heritage of Morocco’s largest city. Casablanca is an old, dirty city on the North Atlantic coast of Africa. It was first settled by the Berbers around the 7th century BC. During the early half of the 20th century, the country was under French rule.
Avenue des Far & Boulevard Hassan I, Casablanca 20250, Morocco
This shopkeepers’ vegetable stall looked like a burnt-out bunker. Yet he was extremely proud of his display of potatoes, onions, carrots, bell and chili peppers plus lemons and squash. It deserved a thumb up. He is typical of the merchants you will find in the Old Medina: hard working, humble and eager to satisfy every customer.
Avenue des Far & Boulevard Hassan I, Casablanca 20250, Morocco
The Old Medina is a walled-in, narrow maze of traditional shops. This close up of a vegetable stand is typical. It displays tomatoes and lemons plus bell and chili peppers. This colorful medley of produce looked appetizing and would also make a challenging jigsaw puzzle.
Avenue des Far & Boulevard Hassan I, Casablanca 20250, Morocco
Two thousand years ago, Nomads called Berbers began harvesting figs and dates in Morocco in northwestern Africa. When the Arabs conquered them in the seventh century, they brought along spices like ginger, cinnamon and caraway. Together the two cultures created the type of candied figs, dates, bananas, apricots and walnuts sold at Fez el Bali.
The wall around Fes el Bali has sealed in Morocco’s medieval history. Each neighborhood hosts a different craft or type of merchant (guild). Examples include blacksmiths, potters, weavers, butchers and leather tanneries. Few of the vendors use modern equipment. Instead, they follow traditional practices handed down through the generations. It is typical to see men like these socializing while another works. At first glance, you will be amazed how these poultry form a perfect circle while being feed, as if they were domesticated. Then you will notice their legs are bound.
These sacks of grains and nuts are typical of how produce is displayed for sale at Fes el Bali. Over 150,000 people bustle along its cramped stone walkways on a daily basis. It takes practice to dodge and weave among the bustling crowd without literally rubbing shoulders with the locals.
Moroccans love their food with spices. A well-stocked kitchen contains essential ingredients such as garlic, figs, ginger, pepper, paprika, cumin, saffron threads, turmeric, yellow coloring, nutmeg, sesame seeds and bay leaves. Also important to North African cuisine is Ras el hanout. This is a mixture of ground spices and means “head of the shop.”
103, Rahba Lakdima, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Marrakech is a city of contrasts … from attracting rich tourists who seek luxury hotels to some city residents who have no electricity or water. It has 18 souks or markets. They are noisy, often dirty and busy. Street vendors are also commonplace. This one was taking a nap during his unsuccessful day.
103, Rahba Lakdima, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
On display in numerous stalls of Marrakech’s souks are ornate lanterns and scones. Their material ranges from bronze, brass, silver and sometimes tin. Historically, souqs served caravans of travelers. The open-air markets of Marrakech date back to the early 12th century when it was walled-in to protect the early northwestern Africa settlers. Today, this remnant of medieval times is a maze of narrow streets, ancient buildings and traditional trades. The word “souk” was a French spelling from the 19th century.
Souk el Haddadine, Rue Fehl Chidmi, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Souk Haddadine is the metalworking section of the Medina of Marrakech. It is a unique experience in sensory overload. Finished merchandise dangles everywhere. They clang together in the hot breeze like out-of-tune wind chimes. Young men squat on the ground pounding new creations with archaic mallets on simple anvils. The chaotic environment is a gawkers dream.
Souk el Haddadine, Rue Fehl Chidmi, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Moroccan confections at Souk Kchacha tend to be figs and dates covered with cinnamon or other sweeteners. They are often served as a form of hospitality along with a glass of Maghrebi mint tea. This is a green tea prepared hot in a teakettle and very sweet with fresh mint leaves floating in it and sometimes tobacco. Traditionally, the men make a ritual out of brewing and serving the tea. When offered, it is rude not to drink it.
Rahba Kedima, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Like most cultures, Moroccans love their candy. The temptations often incorporate dates, figs and nuts. From what I saw among several souks in Northern Africa, these sweets rarely are topped with chocolate. This candy display at Souk Kchacha is typical of the mouthwatering treats. They are delicious and inexpensive to sample.
Rahba Kedima, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
I was surprised to see displays of fireplace billows in the souks. Marrakech’s temperature rarely dips below 45° F in the winter. Then I was told they were predominately used to stoke the fires in kitchens while cooking and by tradesmen like metalworkers. They are also a popular souvenir among tourists who must return home to a cold climate. What a great way to blow the ambers under burning logs on a very cold, winter evening.
Souk el Haddadine, Rue Fehl Chidmi, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Spices in Marrakech souks tend to be displayed in pyramid-shaped mounds. The bright colors include black and white pepper, yellow turmeric, red paprika, brown cinnamon and golden cumin. Each has a unique aroma and taste. While most are used as staples in Moroccan cuisine, a few are also used for medicinal purposes. For example, saffron is supposed to cure asthma. Some people also claim it is a sexual stimulant. But saffron is also very expensive (can be several thousand dollars a pound) and frequently counterfeited. So choose your spices carefully.
103, Rahba Lakdima, Marrakesh 40000, Morocco
Babouches are Moroccan pointed slippers typically made from leather. They have no heels or shoelaces and are incredibly comfortable. The footwear is available in a rainbow of colors as seen in this vibrant display at Souk Smata (shoe souk).
Souk Smati, Marrakech 40000, Morocco
Many of the streets and alleys of Marrakech are adorned by colorful doors, walls and windows reminiscent of a paint wheel from a hardware store. Equally colorful are women’s robes such as this one called a djellaba or kaftan. She seemed to be hurrying home with a package from the market.
Souk Smati, Marrakech 40000, Morocco