Influenced by the power of the Medici family and the brilliance of Michelangelo, this World Heritage Site city has an abundance of icons. They include the Duomo and Ponte Vecchi over the Arno River plus squares and bridges filled with beautiful statues. Florence is one of the best cities in the world.
To enjoy the elevated beauty of Florence, drive to the Oltrarno district and then along the five mile, tree-lined boulevard called Viale dei Colli until you reach Piazzale Michelangelo. Michelangelo Square has offered breathtaking, panoramic views since the lookout was built in 1869. Among the landmarks to admire are Cathedral of Florence (right), Palazzo Vecchio Tower (left) and the hills of Settignano and Fiesole.
Piazzale Michelangelo, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
This side view of the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Flower from Piazza Duomo not only provides another look at the world’s largest masonry dome, but also showcases the beautiful polychrome marble panels that are green, pink and white. Just image this elaborate pattern stretching for over 500 feet on both sides. In fact, the size of the Duomo’s nave makes it the third largest church in the world.
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The dome of Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore is the architectural and engineering marvel of Filippo Brunelleschi. It consists of 37,000 tons of construction materials, including over four million bricks in a herringbone pattern. On top of the lantern is a bronze ball. This was made by Andrea del Verrocchio and his apprentice, Leonardo da Vinci. From the dome’s initial design until its completion in 1469 required 173 years of labor.
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Although the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Flower was finished in 1436, this gorgeous façade of pink, green and white marble was not started for another 440 years and was completed in 1887. There are so many ornate features spread across its 124 foot width that it is hard to describe them all. The most beautiful ones include three rose windows, three tympanum mosaics over the doors and the row of 12 apostle statues.
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Some Duomo critics protest that it is over decorated. However, I was mesmerized by all the intricate features on this Roman Catholic basilica and thankfully a long lens brought them up close for inspection. An example is this huge, gorgeous rose window. Below it is a statue of Mary with the infant Jesus. In fact, the entire façade is dedicated to the Mother of Christ.
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A tympanum is a semi-circular wall above an entrance and an archivolt are the ornamental moldings that follow the arch. Few are more gorgeous than this one that surrounds a mosaic called “Christ enthroned with Mary and John the Baptist.” All three mosaics on the Cathedral of Florence’s façade were designed by Nicoolò Barabino. They welcome you to the artist treasures inside the Duomo.
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Construction of the octagonal Florence Baptistery was completed in 1128, which makes this minor basilica one of Florence’s oldest buildings. But its doors are more famous. A young goldsmith named Lorenzo Ghiberti won the competition to create a 28 panel door. It took him 21 years. The next year, in 1425, he was asked to create the “Gates of Paradise” door which is now on the east side. This gilded panel, “Joseph Sold into Slavery,” is one of the ten panels that tell Old Testament stories. This masterpiece took him an additional 27 years to create.
Piazza di San Giovanni, 8, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Pigeons spend far more time admiring statues than people who just walk by, which is too bad because most represent fascinating history. For example, the Giovanni Delle Bande Nere statue at Piazza San Lorenzo is a tribute to the last, great Italian condottiero named Lodovico de Medici. He was the savage head of professional mercenaries who fought battles for hire by local cities and the pope until he died shortly after being wounded in 1526. Oddly, his body was exhumed in 2012 and they determined that his foot, and not his entire leg, had been amputated in an attempt to save his life.
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Florence is blessed with so many buildings from the Late Middle Ages, the Renaissance period, and the Age of Discovery that you feel like you are walking through history. But it is also a big, urban city which necessitates security bars on many of the lower windows. But even these contain beauty: look closely and you’ll see they often contain flower boxes.
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This fairly unattractive building on the outside is the Medici Chapels which were built in 1524 to be the family mausoleum. People are willing to wait in long lines because inside are several beautiful marble sculptures by Michelangelo. He also designed the New Sacristy at the Basilica of San Lorenzo which is part of the same complex. This Roman Catholic church was built in the mid-15th century.
Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The word “novella” means “new” but that’s a relative term because the Basilica of Saint Maria Novella is the oldest church in Florence. It was considered finished in 1360 but the Dominican friars continued enhancing it until 1470 … 250 years after construction started. An historic footnote is that the large square in front of the Roman Catholic church hosted an annual chariot race called Palio dei Cocchi from the mid-16th until the late 19th centuries.
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The Fortezza Da Basso, which was finished in 1537, has massive walls that give the huge fortress a pentagonal shape. It also features an imposing tower as seen from the Porta Santa Maria Novella entrance. It never saw battle. I was surprised to learn that this military Renaissance architecture is now an exhibition center that houses two modern pavilions with a contemporary appearance. Two other Congress Centers managed by Firenze Fiera are nearby.
Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1, 50129 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
In a city filled with gorgeous churches, San Marco is typically not on the tourist list but its history is interesting. In 1436, the founder of the Medici dynasty invited the Dominican Friars of Fiesole to move to Florence with the promise of having Michelozzo build them this church (consecrated in 1443) and a convent which, since 1869, has been a museum of 15th century Renaissance art. Before entering the church, look up and you’ll see the Winged Lion of St. Mark which is the symbol for Venice.
Piazza San Marco 1, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Often times when I photograph historic buildings, I can sense its most significant features. Not so this time. In this photo, the organ and fresco were beautiful. However, what is famous is the small, gold crucifix at the bottom. It was created by Fra Angelico, also called Angelic Brother John, between 1425 and 1428 when he was only 30. Between 1436 and 1445, he painted wonderful frescos in the church and adjoining monastery before being called to the Vatican to paint several frescos in St. Peter’s. In 1984 he became the patron saint of Catholic artists.
Piazza San Marco 1, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The Franciscans built this beautiful Basilica of Santa Croce from 1294 through 1442. At the apex of the marble façade is the Star of David. Inside is a stunning array of frescos. This Roman Catholic church is also known as the Temple of the Italian Glories. The elite of Florence were buried here for five centuries. Among the tombs are the remains of Michelangelo and Galileo.
Piazza di Santa Croce, 16, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The National Central Library, called Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale, is the largest in Italy and, since 1870, it has housed all new Italian publications. Despite the loss of one-third of its collection during the 1966 Arno River flood, it contains over 5 ½ million books and some manuscripts dating back to when the library was founded in 1714 by Antonio Magliabechi.
Piazza dei Cavalleggeri, 1, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
In 1255, Florence’s oldest public building, Bargello Palace, was the headquarters for the Captain of the People and, in the 16th century, the Captain of Police. This stark, fortified building served as a prison until, in 1865, it became the Museo Nazionale del Bargello. Inside is a wonderful collection of famous Italian statues, including several by Michelangelo.
Via del Proconsolo, 4, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The fountain of Neptune at Piazza Della Signoria was ordered in 1565 by the House of Medici, a political dynasty in Florence, as a wedding gift for the second Grand Duke of Tuscany. Neptune’s face apparently resembles Cosimo Medici, the Duke of Florence. The base has two chained, mythological monsters plus bronze gods and marble seahorses. The statue in front of Palazzo Vecchio is a replica; the original is in the National Museum.
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This site has historically been the epicenter of political power starting with the Romans in the first century. The dominant Uberti Family ruled here in the 13th century. After Palazzo Vecchio was finished in 1322, it was used by the Signoria government followed by the Medici dukes. During the 19th century, this was the capital of Italy. Architecturally, the fortress kept evolving and growing until about 1540. Today, it is a wonderful museum.
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In the late 15th century, two artists failed to convert a huge block of Carrara marble called “The Giant” into a statue of David that was supposed to sit atop the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo). Then Michelangelo, at the age of 26, was given the chance. After more than two years of work, the 17 foot masterpiece was unveiled in Piazza della Signoria. In 1910, it was replaced by this replica. You can see the original in the Accademia Gallery in Florence. In the photo’s background is the Monogram of Christ over the entrance of Palazzo Vecchio.
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When the Medici family returned to power in 1512 and again in 1530, they commissioned Baccio Bandinelli to sculpt from Carrara marble this statue of Hercules after killing the giant Vulcan Cacus. It clearly symbolized the House of Medici victory. It still stands in the Piazza della Signoria in front of Palazzo Vecchio. The Medicis were a royal family in the late 14th and 15th century that produced several dukes, two French queens and four Catholic popes.
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In 1583, an enormous block of marble was transformed by Giambologna into The Rape of the Sabine Women. It does not depict a sexual crime. Instead, it portrays when Roman men abducted women from a neighboring tribe to be their wives around 750BC. It is one of several beautiful but often graphic statues inside the open-air Loggia dei Lanzi at the Piazza della Signoria.
Chiasso dei Baroncelli, 3, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
This view of the classic Palazzo Vecchio is seen from a street called Via Vacchereccia. The 308 foot, rectangular tower casts a shifting shadow over Piazza della Signoria, Florence’s central square. The first clock was installed in 1353. It was replaced in 1667 with this Giorgio Lederle Clock. Notice the timepiece only has one hand. The tower is named Torre d’Arnolfo after Arnolfo di Cambio. The 13th century architect also designed Santa Croce and the Duomo.
Via Vacchereccia, 50122 Firenze FI Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Do you love Florence? Then place a coin in the mouth of this bronze boar named Porcellino while rubbing his snout. This tradition “guarantees” your return. This Piglet Fountain is located on the south side of a loggia (covered market) called Mercato Nuovo, which means “New Market.” That’s a relative term, because it was built in the mid-16th century. The original boar was sculpted by Pietro Tacca around 1634 and is now at the Museo Bardini. A marble version is at the Uffizi Museum. This replica arrived in 2008.
Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Piazza della Repubblica has a long history. It began as a Roman forum before evolving into the commercial heart of Firenze. Then the area deteriorated into a ghetto where minorities were segregated. After Florence became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy in 1865, the seediness was swept aside as medieval landmarks were demolished during a massive urbanization project. The Arcone Triumphal Arch was built in 1895 to celebrate the transformation. Its inscription reads: “The ancient center of the city restored from age-old squalor to new life.” Republic Square is now the home of high-end hotels, stores and popular cafes.
Piazza della Repubblica, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Begin exploring Florence early in the morning before the tourists arrive. The scenery is magical as evident by this scene from Lungarno degli Archibugieri (north riverbank). Watch a rower glide along the Arno. Overlook an art class painting Ponte Vecchio. This 105 foot, stone arch span was constructed in 1218 and rebuilt in 1345. This bridge is the only one to survive World War II and the devastating flood of 1966. Wow, this Florence icon is gorgeous!
Ponte Vecchio, 33 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Ponte Santa Trinita, which was built in 1569, is the world’s oldest Renaissance elliptic arch bridge. The red and white oars of the racing shell in the Arno river indicate this rowing team are members of the “Canottieri Firenze” Club that was founded in 1911. In the background is the distinctive Torre d’Arnolfo or the Palazzo Vecchio tower. The bridge was destroyed by German troops during WWII but reconstructed in 1958.
Ponte Santa Trinita, 3455 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
On August 3, 1944, the occupying Germans forced all Florence residents to stay home for several days. They then destroyed five of six bridges that crossed the Arno (only the Ponte Vecchio was spared) in anticipation of the Allies’ advance. Among the casualties that night was Primavera, the Spring statue created by Pietro Francavilla in 1608 for the Ponte Santa Trinita bridge. By 1958, the bridge was rebuilt and the Four Season statues were returned to their corners. But Primavera remained decapitated until her head was found in 1961 buried deep in the mud downstream.
Ponte Santa Trinita, 3455 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
In 1608, Cosimo II de’ Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany and the primary benefactor of Galileo, was getting married. To honor the occasion, four statues of the seasons were commissioned for the Ponte Santa Trinita bridge. Giovanni Caccini created two of them: Summer and this one representing Autumn.
Ponte Santa Trinita, 3455 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The façade of the 1487 Basilica of Santa Maria del Santo Spirito is very bland because it was never completed, except for this bell tower. In contrast, the Corinthian columns, arches and frescos inside St. Mary of the Holy Spirit are far more interesting. What I found most interesting, however, is that the teenage Michelangelo was allowed to study corpses here from the convent’s hospital. In appreciation, he carved a simple wooden cross that can be seen in the sacristy.
Piazza Santo Spirito, 30, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Palazzo Pitti derives its name from the original owner, Luca Pitti. The banker commissioned the elaborate home in 1458. A century later, it was sold to the Duke of Florence, Cosimo I de’ Medici. He expanded the mansion into a palace in order to accommodate his guests. The extravagant property remained the Medici family residence until the dynasty ended in 1737. Today, Pitti Palace is home to the city’s largest museum of Renaissance and modern art. You can also see the royal apartments where the Medici family lived. And do not miss the Boboli gardens in back.
Piazza de' Pitti, 1, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
This spillway across the Arno river is Pescaia di Santa Rosa, a weir that was designed to provide power to local mills (now gone), to help tame the river, and as a military defense. In the center is Chiesa di Ognissanti, a Franciscan church dating back to the mid-13th century. The white buildings are on the north bank street called Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci which, in 1857, was dedicated to an Italian navigator who lived in this neighborhood before exploring the New World in the late 15th century. “America” is derived from his first name.
Piazza di Cestello 50124 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, better known as the Cathedral of Florence, is enormous. The Duomo is 526 feet long and the dome is 375 feet tall. There is only one place where you can fully appreciate its grandeur. That viewpoint is at Piazzale Michelangiolo, also known as Michelangelo Square.
Piazzale Michelangelo, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Fans of Michelangelo’s statue David have three opportunities to see it. A replica was placed in front of the Palazzo della Signoria when the original was moved to Accademia Gallery in 1873. This bronze cast adorns the center of Piazzale Michelangelo, also known as Michelangelo Square. At the pedestal’s base are figures representing day, night, twilight and dawn. The original marble allegorical statues by Michelangelo adorn tombs in the Medici Chapels at San Lorenzo Basilica.
Piazzale Michelangelo, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
At sunset, the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno below are bathed in a golden hue that rivals the goldsmiths’ showcases inside. Starting in the 13th century, the covered bridge was filled with butchers and fish markets. But when Duke Ferdinando I got tired of the stench and pollution, he declared in 1593 that only jewelers and gold merchants could sell here … a tradition that’s lasted over 400 years. At night, most of those green shutters close until morning.
Ponte Vecchio, 12 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions
Florence, Italy is captivating. It is steeped in history and art (like Michelangelo’s statue David), showcases Renaissance architecture (like the Duomo on Florence Cathedral), offers wonderful outside dining (like at Palazzo Vecchio), and is a shoppers’ delight for mosaics, leather and jewelry. At dusk, stand near the covered bridge of Ponte Vecchio and watch the sun set over the Arno River and the Ponte Santa Trinita Bridge.
Lungarno Guicciardini, 9, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy Enlarge/Slideshow See On Map Directions